Mechanic says trucks lifters are bad by the sound that it makes. Could it be something else?

Update:

Is there anything else that makes similar noises

9 Answers

Relevance
  • 3 weeks ago

    The problem is YOU and your oil  choices The BAX is a moron! ALL MODERN CARS made after 1990 or so require ONLY SYNTHETIC  OIL for the VARIABLE TIMING and DIRECT injection types! REG oil like VALVOLILNE is useless and makes tarry sludge, coke wax and other coatings that are NOT USEFUL Did you know that AMSOIOL makes oils that are good for 25,000 MILES with ONE FILTER change in the midway! Did know that PENNZOIL PLATINUM< made from NATURAL GAS and NOT crude oil, gives a 500,000 mile warranty! VALVOLILNE is NOT used by ANY FAOY on earth yet people STILL use it! It dissolves RUBBER PARTS and SEALS and corrupts LILFTERS and TIMING CHAIN assemblies! There is such a thing as SPEC NUMBERS< which are totally different from  VISCOSITY ratings! You have been suing the WRONG OIL in this thing IF YOU SWITCH over to PENNZOIL PLATINUM  it will clea eh LIFTERS ( that do NOT wear out) and engine will become QUIETED again in a day or so, as the BAKED IN SLUDGE in engine parts gets washed away! The BEST OILS give NO ACIDIC vapors to eat up SEALS< GASKETS and DIAPHRAGMS! DO NOT BE FOOLED BY CHEAP OIL CHANGES< either! They are a WASTE and usually it comes with very cheap PAPER OIL FILTERS! A The BEST filters use FLEECE or SYNTHETIC FIBERS to trap particles safely! Many cars now use DIRECT INFECTION that also REQUIRES the use of PURE SYNTHETIC OILS! EURPEOAN cars require ONLY EUROPEAN FULL SYNTHETIC OILS like PENNZOIL PLATINUM< which is good for ONE ENTIRE YEAR! Modern cars BAREKLY polluter, as the specifications for engine parts gets MORE and MORE refined and tighter in manufacturing! People that LOVED the old CHEVY engines are in for a BUIG SURPRISE! Those gas eaters were like SOUP CANS in a WEAK BLOCK with small cam shaft openings !ALSO< every engine made by GM across the globe from 1995-2003 is DEFECTIVE!! THE DEXCOOL WILL EAT GASKETS UP AND NEXT THING YOU WIL BE PUMPING coolant OUT THE TAILPIPE! Gm didn't even CARE!!! The FLAGSHIP of GM< the CADILLAC  engines are made NOT from ALUMINUM ALLOYS< but with ALUMINUM only They wear out by 100,000 miles! One client of mine had a great used BMW CONVERTIBLE that I corrected the FLAWS done by other mechanics! His OTHER car was a CADDY SRX  These engines all have BAD CHEAP timing chains in them that FAIL as programmed at about 100,000 miles! what A rip off! meanwhile Benz AND Volvo HAVE MILLION MILE CLUBS! so DO BMW, vw< AND Audi! so DOES Porsche. Without getting in to too much detail here on QUALITY,  I have a special mixture of ENGIEN CLEANERS that really work to get ALL the muck out of engine parts BEFORE you change the oil! VALVOLINE is NOW and has always BEEN A RIP-OFF oil that no factory will use due to its ability to CASUE troubles like YOURS! lifters ARE LIKE LITTLE bullets THAT ARE two METAL HOUSINGS, onw INSIDE TH OTHER! tHEY HAVE mall oil OPENINGS IN THEM AND A spring IN BETWEEN! thERY ARE designerdf TO USE cleran OIL PRSSURE TO expand THEM AND KEEP THEM quiet! using bad  HEAP OIL always LEAVES tarry sludge< OR wax OR varnish< IN PLACEs THAT SHOUDL REMAIN showroom  lean!>>>I F YOU DO AS I SWRITE HERE, JUST USE Pennzoil >l+platinum AND IN NO TIME THE lifters WILL CLEAN THMSELVES OUT, A;OPNMD EITH OTHER vital ENGINE PARTS! derive oN IT FOR ABOUT 2-3 MONTHS! wash YOUR ENGINE BAY DOWN WITH gunk original orange ENGINE CLEANER AT A  CAR WASH WITH ENGIEN RUNNING! if ENGINE HAS A distributor AVOID GETTING WATER ON IT!  most ENGINES TODAY HAVE sealed IGNITIONS IMPERVIOUS TO WATER AND MOISTURE! NEVER EVER use VALVOLINE or other cheaoply nmade WAX or ASDH based oils! PENNZOIL is unique as it is NOT made from CRUDE OIL< but fromm NATURAL GAS< which is HIGH in detergent, zand will simply NOT make harmful tarry WAX and OIL dpeosits, nor will it have ADCIDIC VAPORS that eat up rubber hoses and seals and gaskets! I have crs out there with over 300,000 mierls and NO LEAKS or signs of engine wear! I HAVE GOTEN four people<e NEW OR NEWER ENGINES FROM THE manufacturer OR THE oil COMPANY INVOLVED! tHE jusk YARDS ARE full OF ENGINES USING cheap oil changes AND valvoline IN THEM! bax IS A nut case HERE! He was a MITSUBISHI technician and cannot figure out that those engines have very SMALL oil ports and that ONLY SYNTHETIC OILS will prevent internal damages! My other largest ENGINEERING FAUX PAS is SPARK PLUG TECHNOLOGY! BAD CHAP PLUGS do not burn fuel completely! GM's AC DELCO plugs will not pass PLUG TEST! Neither will CHAMPION Plugs! GM has plugs made in MEXICO for a nickel a piece GET THE PICTURE! Using only DENSO TWIN TIP IRIDIUM LASER plugs will keep engines CLEANEST< and protect the O2 sensor and the pricey CAT CONVERTER from internal wear and tear!The BONUS is that due to our MODERN EUROPEAN formula FUEL mixtures, the IRIDIUM reacts at the MOLECULAR lever with the presence of IRIDIUM< to burn MORE fuel, MORE completely! The benefit here is that 20% more power and economy is usually generated using them! ENGINERS remain cleaner longer as more fuel get burned CORRECCTLY without any wasted energy! They also prevent STARTER FAILURESS as it only takes a ONE SECOND turn over to start the engines! This saves the starter from wearing out! .ALWAYS clean your engine bay regularly with GUNK ORIGINAL ORANGE engine cleaner as it PREVENTS other woes like RADIATOR WEAR< HOSE wear, Rotting gaskets and MORE! A CLEAN STARTER will last longer with NO oil deposits leaked onto it! REGULAR OIL always causes trouble, somewhere! AMSOIL is SO good, it only req2uires ONE OIL CHANGE every 25,000 miles with ONE filter change midway through! NOTHING can beat the ENGINE Warranty you g3t  by using PENNZOIL PLPATINUM or EURO! With proof of purchase, 500,000 MIERLS of protection! MOPDERN enviers are VERY efficient due toFUEL INJETION precision! Using REG oil will cause injector problems as well! THE TRUTH IS engines with troubles usually begin in the AIR SIDE of the engine and NOT with the INJECTION SYSTYEM or INJECTORS At all! bad oil WILL ACTUALLY bake INTO ENGINE PARTS AS THE ENGINES GET hot AND cold< OVER AND OVER AGAIN! THOUSANDS an THOUSANDS of times.>>>>the BOTTOM line to your question is, USE SYNTYHETIC OILS with proper SPE$CICFICATION numbers on the LABEL! AUDI< e.g., requires only 502/505 SPEC OIL. BMW requires ONLY LONG LIFE LL-01, LL-03 OIL! Benz needs ONLY 229.01/229.03 OIL! LUCKILY< MOBIL ONE 0W-40 meets these needs! And so do REAL oils from EUROPE< like LIQUI MOLY< AMSOIL< PENNZOIL EURO, and  MOTUL! If I owned an OIL CHANGE CENTER< I would feature ONLY EUROPEAN SPEC oils and fluids are a HIGHER standard and MUCH more refined!  OIL CHANGES can last FOR ONE FULL YEAR or LONGER< if synthetics are used! AGAION< NEVER EVER use VALVOLINE OILS1 They FAIL in the long run in long range testing! INSTALL a set of DENSO TWIN TIP IRIDIUM LASER plugs to get the MOST from every DROP of fuel! Use PENNZOIL and get the 500,000 miels extra WARRANTY! Your engine will FELL turbo charged at this point! I have RESCUED so many cars from DETERIORATION< lust by the use of PEZNNOIL< AMSOIL or LIQUI MOLY oils that PRESERVE gaskets and SEALS and the DIAPHRAGMS in the BRAKE BOOSTER and in the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR.  This is NO JOKE! MODERN cars are capable of lasting EASILY to 300,000 + MILES! if you do NTO get there, it is YOUR FAULT! vapor hoses on cars using VALVOLINE will ROT! THe PCV system on EUROAN engines and FORDS will suffer FAILURES that are QUITER PRICEY if you do NTO use SYNTHETIC OILS with proper SPEC NUMBERS on the label! Go shopping sometime at an AUTO STORE! read THE labels! You WILL SEE THINGS LIKE meets GM SPEC NUMBERS, SO AND SO! Meets BMW SPECS, so-AND-SO! etc! This is MORE IMPORTANT than simple VISCOSITY RATINGS alone! >>>>Once you get PENNZOIL into your ENGINE< the lifters will get CLEANED UP as the SLUDGE and TAR< and VARNISH gets pushed out and CLEAN fresh oil gets into the OIL PORES involved! LIFTERS will actually REBUILD themselves>>> SAVE YOUR MONEY on BAD advice! I will APOLOGIZE for the typos if  you find any here! I am working on a FIFTENN year old keyboard in a room with NO lighting! I try to correct most TYPOS! It's NOT very easy to do in the DARK! ..TRUST ME! You do NOT have BAD LIFTERS>>> you have been DUPED into using VERY BAD OIL! >>ALSO have your THROTTLE BODY and IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE cleaned out to SHOWROOM CLEAN! This will INSURE the best FUEL/AIR mixture around TOWN where it counts! You will be doing the ENVIRONMENT a BIG FAVOR! I have had MANY vehicles that do NOTY contribute much to pollution, despite what JACK ASSED TRUMP has to say about environment and EMISSIONS  You can call me PDERSONALLY at 231-288-4995 for more advice! Leave your NUMBER! I have 400,000 eMAILS to answer mostly on CAR issues! I need a SECRETARY I TRY to answer as many eMAILS as I can and PHONE CALLS, too IF you own a GM car, the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVES fail every easily! Using BAD oil wil ROT the diaphragm in your FUEL PRESSURE REGUALTOR and BRAKE BOOSTER over time as WELL! LEARN to read your OIL! Remove the OIL FILL CAP and see if there is any VISIBLE SLUDGE under the cap or inside the engine! If you see TARRY SLUDGE HERE>>it will be in every moving PART INSIDE THE engine. CKLEAN is the NAME of the GAME! JUNK YARDS are FULL Of engines corrupted by the use of VALVOLINE and other Wax based inferior OILS! LEARN from this ADVENTURE! 

       

  • Anonymous
    3 weeks ago

    Do you have any idea what the year, make model, engine size, or mileage is? Even maintenance history is needed.

    Without any of that how do you expect anyone to blindly give you a reliable answer?

  • M.
    Lv 7
    3 weeks ago

    Low oil pressure can make the lifters clatter. 

    There are 2 parts to a lifter.  The part that follows the camshaft, and the hydraulic part inside. 

    You did not identify your car or engine, so I don't know if you have an overhead camshaft or not. 

    You also did not state your odometer mileage, so I don't know if you have a migh mileage, well used engine. 

    Often a worn or injured camshaft is part of the problem. 

    -Engine overhaul mechanic and general automotive mechanic since 1972

  • Anonymous
    4 weeks ago

    Rod knock Can sound like collapsed lifters. Comes from different location, though. I turned down a Bronco that had collapsed lifter, originally though to be bearing, too. 

    Dad taught  me to put a stick to engine, thumb over other end, then thumb in my ear. Works

    . Trust your mechanic. Removing/replacing lifers can be done in  an afternoon. You Might get away with an oil  change to a hi detergent oil like Synth. It may work 'em free. Change  again after  it  does. Rod bearings, in some vehicles, require motor  be suspended   or even removed. I met a guy with a Volvo,  the party  he bought it from, said it "needed rings". He investigated, it was valve stem seals. 2 hours  of work, and   he had a great running wagon , that only cost $300.

    @M: He Wrote it was a Truck, Not a "car". Very good chance its OHV, the sound of col. lifter in the hole  is close to main and rod bearings, so some get confused.

  • What do you think of the answers? You can sign in to give your opinion on the answer.
  • Anonymous
    4 weeks ago

    No, nothing else makes similar noises. The question is WHY your lifters are noisy. There could be several reasons but we just don't have enough information. 

  • Anonymous
    4 weeks ago

    Mechanic has experience in knowing what this sounds like.    I can't hear it.

  • 4 weeks ago

    If you haven't been changing your oil every 3,000 miles or every 5,000 miles if running synthetic oil the lifters are likely making noise. I'd replace them if you have 100,000 miles on the motor. if you have more mileage perhaps putting a used low mileage motor in would be better.

  • Erik
    Lv 7
    4 weeks ago

    If he's just going by sound, absolutely.

  • Rick
    Lv 6
    4 weeks ago

    the noise and the timing of the noise are pretty specific ..........

Still have questions? Get answers by asking now.