As I've grown to expect, fhotoace nailed it (Why am I not surprised?)
Retired Phil also set forth a great thought: questioning whether the lens is indeed "broken." Land Shark and BriaR had great suggestions. By the way, did you check the lens' Instructions? What if the lens is NOT broken but merely not set to AF? Wouldn't that be a pleasant surprise for you?
I have a different idea for consideration. Photography, for the most part, offers us a variety of ways to do things, and different ways to get around difficult shots. First and foremost, it helps if you know what you're doing and it's even better (most often easier) if you have the right equipment. But sometimes you simply have to rely on creativity and ingenuity, yes or YES?
Back in '69 to early 70s, I took team portraits for the Basketball, Football and Track & Field teams (plus a few others that did not include so many team members) that were also used for the Yearbook. I always insisted in crazy things no one else imposed on their subjects but worked for ME (divided height order to both sides of each row to make them as even, keeping the taller ones in the middle); I chose the athletic field benches and I stood on a step ladder to match the middle row height (HAD to, I'm only 5'5"). I insisted on shooting late in the afternoon (I checked and knew the sunlight came from one side, not from behind or facing the subjects). I instructed the subjects to close their eyes on the count of 1, open and deliberately blink on the count of 2 and hold their eyes open and relaxed on the count of 3 (and I shot on the count of 4), just as I did (still do) when taking individual and group wedding portraits ---it worked for me. Of course, I also took 2 or 3 extra shots... "in case..." (I call it "belt & suspenders").
Here's the detail I left for last: I only had a very, very, very inexpensive DSR with ONLY one lens: 50mm f/1.7 and no lighting equipment worth lurching along with. When you don't have a wide angle lens... you "zoom" out by moving yourself back physically until your subjects fit in your viewfinder, focus and shoot. SLRs were not programmable back then; they were ALL-MANUAL. I used a relatively slow ISO film and relied on the in-camera light meter. I worked the settings to enable me to shoot at least at 1/60th sec with a smaller aperture to increase the depth-of-field (to capture details of the different rows of subjects).
IF you don't have "professional" level gear, use what you have but BE creative, plan ahead and do the best you can with what you have. It's all a part of gaining experience and LEARNING. You might as well have fun, yes or YES? Good luck and best wishes.