• Stovetop knob shaft fell through oven console. Can I fix it myself?

    Stovetop knob shaft fell through oven console. Can I fix it myself?

    While I was cooking, I went to turn the knob and found that it wasn't staying in place. After attempting to turn it a couple more times, I took the knob off of the shaft and it fell through. In addition, a screw fell out on the bottom, but there was no screw above the shaft (this may have something to do with... show more
    While I was cooking, I went to turn the knob and found that it wasn't staying in place. After attempting to turn it a couple more times, I took the knob off of the shaft and it fell through. In addition, a screw fell out on the bottom, but there was no screw above the shaft (this may have something to do with why it wasn't working before). I would ask our apartment complex to fix it, but they are very slow with repairs. Is this something I can fix myself? If so, then how?
    3 answers · 3 days ago
  • Dryer won’t get hot?

    My Roper dryer just stopped getting hot all of a sudden. It works sometimes and other times will only blow cold air. Was working fine this morning and next time I checked it was cold again. Any ideas on what to check first ?
    My Roper dryer just stopped getting hot all of a sudden. It works sometimes and other times will only blow cold air. Was working fine this morning and next time I checked it was cold again. Any ideas on what to check first ?
    7 answers · 5 days ago
  • Is this a reasonable bill for HVAC maintenance?

    Best answer: HVAC technicians are a rare breed these days, and getting one who is recommended by others is even rarer. I would guess the paperwork gives you the breakdown on the charges. Most likely there is a travel/basic visit fee of up to $100, plus an hourly charge of $80 to $100/hour, plus the freon and some cost for the... show more
    Best answer: HVAC technicians are a rare breed these days, and getting one who is recommended by others is even rarer. I would guess the paperwork gives you the breakdown on the charges. Most likely there is a travel/basic visit fee of up to $100, plus an hourly charge of $80 to $100/hour, plus the freon and some cost for the sealing work supplies. It sounds like you had not had the system checked in awhile, so consider yourself lucky you are not buying a new system. Did you ask about a reduced rate if you sign up for routine checks (probably twice a year, spring and fall)?
    5 answers · 4 days ago
  • Two questions regarding welders for anyone who knows about welding?

    1. how do welders cut through hardened steel? ( if need to cut out an area of 1 x 1 1/2 inches through a hardened steel engine deck for a commercial lawn mower) 2. where do they get metal to fill in areas that need more metal? do they use like metal rods or how to add metal to spots that need more metal added?
    1. how do welders cut through hardened steel? ( if need to cut out an area of 1 x 1 1/2 inches through a hardened steel engine deck for a commercial lawn mower) 2. where do they get metal to fill in areas that need more metal? do they use like metal rods or how to add metal to spots that need more metal added?
    5 answers · 4 days ago
  • Will a water filter make my water safe to drink?

    I live in a very old apartment, and the landlord let me know the pipes are also very old (but he won’t be replacing them). The problem is the water will come out a light brownish/red color and will leave some stains in places like the tub and sinks. It’s more prominent in my kitchen than bathroom and I tried to... show more
    I live in a very old apartment, and the landlord let me know the pipes are also very old (but he won’t be replacing them). The problem is the water will come out a light brownish/red color and will leave some stains in places like the tub and sinks. It’s more prominent in my kitchen than bathroom and I tried to drink it once but the taste was gross, so I deemed it undrinkable. Recently, I’ve been wondering if a water filter would solve the problem and make the water safe to drink?
    16 answers · 1 week ago
  • Can you use a big stainless steel pot (turned upside down) as an improvised step stool? Or is it too dangerous?

    Best answer: Too dangerous. It will slide away and possibly scratch the floor.
    Best answer: Too dangerous. It will slide away and possibly scratch the floor.
    6 answers · 6 days ago
  • Dripping tap every now and again?

    I have a tap which was changed a few months ago that now drips only after and hour of using it. It is only a few drops/blobs every now and again. Should I get this fixed or just wait and see?
    I have a tap which was changed a few months ago that now drips only after and hour of using it. It is only a few drops/blobs every now and again. Should I get this fixed or just wait and see?
    3 answers · 5 days ago
  • Why do people call exterminating companies to come spray their entire yard for mosquitos?

    it seems like such a stupid thing to spend money on...I mean, why not just spray your arms and legs with some mosquito repellant before going outside in the yard for extended periods of time? (if need to. I only do it if outside in yard for a long time and mosquitos are out really bad)
    it seems like such a stupid thing to spend money on...I mean, why not just spray your arms and legs with some mosquito repellant before going outside in the yard for extended periods of time? (if need to. I only do it if outside in yard for a long time and mosquitos are out really bad)
    7 answers · 1 week ago
  • Can water from a leaking roof make its way to a rafter in the basement?

    Best answer: possible? yes. how old is the steel roof? those shouldn't develop any leaks for decades after installation and yours may have damage or rust problems. full inspection, including from the underside n the attic recommended. meanwhile, you need to search and search hard for anywhere the plumbing might be... show more
    Best answer: possible? yes. how old is the steel roof? those shouldn't develop any leaks for decades after installation and yours may have damage or rust problems. full inspection, including from the underside n the attic recommended.

    meanwhile, you need to search and search hard for anywhere the plumbing might be leaking. I just recently detected a leak inside the wall behind my shower and tub. Water was dripping into the vacant area under the tub and thus was very hard to detect. I literally hard to open the access panel on the other side of the wall and physically grab the pipes leading to the tub ... sure enough, the cold water pipe was wet and from more than condensation.

    [Naturally, I only did this after tearing up the old vinyl tile in the bath to check for leaking wax ring under the toilet. And after checking the incoming and drain piping under the washstand -- both came up dry]

    I've even seen a plastic pipe roof vent break inside the wall and cause a leak only when the kitchen sink was drained -- that was another tricky one but it finally damaged the interior wall (mold) so it could be found.

    you may have to hire a professional leak detection firm to find the water source -- my neighbors had one develop inside an interior wall and it couldn't be found any other way
    4 answers · 5 days ago
  • Can't go to sleep. I cant do this!?

    Best answer: Well, you're going to have trouble sleeping for a little while but there is hope for you: Snap traps. They're cheap. They're humane. They're VERY effective. Cheap: $2.00 buys a pack of two or four. And unlike sticky traps, they're reusable. if the mouse isn't too gross and gooey after... show more
    Best answer: Well, you're going to have trouble sleeping for a little while but there is hope for you:

    Snap traps.

    They're cheap. They're humane. They're VERY effective.

    Cheap: $2.00 buys a pack of two or four. And unlike sticky traps, they're reusable. if the mouse isn't too gross and gooey after the trap, you can just open the trap to release the body, flush, gone. Rebait the trap, reset and it's ready for the next mouse.

    Humane: Mice in sticky traps suffer. Sometimes they die of suffocation which takes a while, sometimes they don't die at all and then YOU suffer. What to do? Release it somehow? Squash it? Throw it in the trash to die slowly of dehydration? Or worse, poison: the mouse might die anywhere. Good luck finding the stinky little body and DON'T YOU BELIEVE IT when the box says it makes the bodies not stink. THEY ALWAYS STINK. I know from bitter experience. Snap traps: BANG and that's it. Even when it doesn't hit the mouse's head, it usually dies almost immediately of shock. if you see/hear a trap or mouse thumping for a minute after the snap, that's just nerve impulses firing at random. The mouse is already dead.

    Effective: mice and rats are evolving resistance to poisons, did you know that? That's why you now see boxes labeled "effective against warfarin-resistant pests!" Sure. Effective for now, until they develop resistance to this new toxin, and the next one, etc. And sticky traps: ever put one down only to wonder where it went the next morning? Yeah: the mouse dragged it off somewhere and maybe pulled itself free. Snap traps: BANG and that's it. There's no evolving a tougher skull when you don't get to survive to breed again.

    I use crunchy peanut butter to bait my traps. Place the baited end square against the wall, preferably under some kind of overhang (high enough the bail can swing over, of course). Mice like to hug the walls.

    Smear the bait on the UNDERSIDE of the bait pedal. Wedge a crunchy bit in there so it's stuck. That way the mouse has to really stretch and wiggle the bait to get *BANG*

    If a trap stops hitting in one spot, move it to another. Place it a few nights in a row UNSET so the mice get used to it being safe again.

    Keep at it. When you can put down several freshly baited traps for 30 nights in a row and get no new mice, you can be pretty sure you've gotten them all, or enough of them that their behavior has changed and they aren't coming into your living space anymore. Then you can just put down a couple of traps in the likeliest places and refresh the bait once a week or so.

    AND NOW: once you've eliminated most of the population, make your place more of a hassle to get into.

    Find and patch every single hole through the walls, floors and ceilings that you can. I use a little wad of Chore Boy or stainless steel pot scrubbing pad (stainless so it doesn't rust) and glue it into place by shooting it full of caulking. Any hole a mouse or rat can get his head through, the rest of him can get through too and it doesn't take a big hole at all - anything pea-sized or bigger (yes, pea) you should plug up.

    Be comprehensive. Look at where your plumbing goes through the walls, look around HVAC vents, doors, around baseboard and window moldings, light fixtures. This will NOT be a quick project and will cost a little bit of money, but not only will it save you in pest hassles it's also a decent bit of weatherizing; you might wind up saving money on your utility bills.

    It's a biggish project but nothing huge that needs to be done all in one day. Lighten the pressure immediately with plenty of traps. Then you can get to the tightening up of your living space.

    Good luck with it.
    4 answers · 6 days ago
  • Is vacuuming your air conditioning filter as good as replacing it?

    Thanking in advance for any insight.
    Thanking in advance for any insight.
    18 answers · 2 weeks ago
  • Can your stove cause an explosion if the gas is turned on but unlit?

    My stove is starting to break down and sometimes won't light up and one time I turned the stove on but didnt notice that the gas was not lit. If that happens again and the stove does turn on will my entire kitchen explode?
    My stove is starting to break down and sometimes won't light up and one time I turned the stove on but didnt notice that the gas was not lit. If that happens again and the stove does turn on will my entire kitchen explode?
    12 answers · 1 week ago
  • Is a 3/8 inch drill bit the size that want to use to drill holes for 3/8 inch bolts ? or should get a size bigger?

    Best answer: Yes use the 3/8 bit the bolt should go three the hole. If by chance it won't use the 3/8 but or a file to bore the hole out a little. Even with washers it best the home in the metal deck is as close to diameter of bolt as possible. Especially if your the poster that was asking about a crack in your mower deck.
    Best answer: Yes use the 3/8 bit the bolt should go three the hole. If by chance it won't use the 3/8 but or a file to bore the hole out a little. Even with washers it best the home in the metal deck is as close to diameter of bolt as possible. Especially if your the poster that was asking about a crack in your mower deck.
    6 answers · 1 week ago
  • Someone told me that I should not use a cordless drill to drill through a steel mower deck, why this would be?

    Best answer: Just yesterday, I used a 14.4v Dewalt cordless to drill a couple of 3/8" holes in my mower deck. I did drill 2 smaller holes and worked up to the 3/8". The advice you quote in "Update #2" isn't about whether a cordless can do the job...it's about avoiding the cost of buying one if you... show more
    Best answer: Just yesterday, I used a 14.4v Dewalt cordless to drill a couple of 3/8" holes in my mower deck. I did drill 2 smaller holes and worked up to the 3/8". The advice you quote in "Update #2" isn't about whether a cordless can do the job...it's about avoiding the cost of buying one if you don't already own one.

    UPDATE: To answer your update, any decent bit made for metal will work, especially for only 4 holes. Lower quality bits will dull faster in metal, but a mower deck is relatively thin metal. Any new drill bit should breeze right through. Don't sweat the finer details...just do it. You'll be fine with what you have. The worst that will happen is that your bits will be dull when you get done.
    6 answers · 1 week ago