• Can the circles / symbols be removed from the front of the Samsung NOTE 11. I m going nuts having to peep thro?

    If these are apps or applications that were installed by the supplier, to get you to use their own or a partner's services, they can be removed. There's a video here that shows how to remove apps on your device - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hypfgpPuTqo If they're markings, left over from stuff that has burned itself into the... show more
    If these are apps or applications that were installed by the supplier, to get you to use their own or a partner's services, they can be removed. There's a video here that shows how to remove apps on your device - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hypfgpPu... If they're markings, left over from stuff that has burned itself into the screen, then it would likely need a new screen. if it's a desktop picture, then you can change the desktop, to another one. - Touch and hold an empty area of any Home screen. Touch Set wallpaper and choose either Home screen, Lock screen, or Home and Lock screens. Select from one of the following locations: Gallery: Select a wallpaper from photographs you have taken with your camera or from other images you have stored in your gallery. Live wallpapers: Select an animated wallpaper. Not available if Lock screen is selected. Wallpapers: Select from many preloaded wallpapers. Select a wallpaper, and touch Done or Set wallpaper. - I took this from a samsung help page. Otherwise, if you could edit your question, and add some extra detail, it could help in deciding how to inform you of what to do. Sometimes dropping into a phone shop, to ask them, will clarify what something is, at no cost. Hope this helps. Happy new year and good luck! Rob
    3 answers · Yahoo Answers · 5 years ago
  • Can you grow night scented stock in winter?

    You would be able to germinate them but it's very possible that they would become leggy, with straggly growth. Their weak stems would likely be not so attractive, due to the lack of sufficient ligtht, that would otherwise allow them to grow strongly. If you supplement the natural light that they get with a grow light, then they would grow more... show more
    You would be able to germinate them but it's very possible that they would become leggy, with straggly growth. Their weak stems would likely be not so attractive, due to the lack of sufficient ligtht, that would otherwise allow them to grow strongly. If you supplement the natural light that they get with a grow light, then they would grow more strongly, though these are expensive. If you get them flowering, their wonderful scent would permeate through the conservatory, which would be great. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    4 answers · Garden & Landscape · 6 years ago
  • Does this make me bisexual?

    Why the pressure to find a label for yourself? A bi male would find both men and women somehow sexually or romantically attractive. As you don't, then your interest specifically relates to your own thoughts about cross-dressing, and seeing images sounds like it sparks your own desire, thinking about dressing in female clothing. Many... show more
    Why the pressure to find a label for yourself? A bi male would find both men and women somehow sexually or romantically attractive. As you don't, then your interest specifically relates to your own thoughts about cross-dressing, and seeing images sounds like it sparks your own desire, thinking about dressing in female clothing. Many straight men love women's clothing, and some also find it a sexual turn-on, either wearing it, or thinking about wearing it. Perhaps being stimulated from watching awakens your desire to cross dress more than you're currently able to - sometimes our needs and behaviours are complex, and it's easier just to focus on what it is that you do want, rather than trying to self-analyse about what's already happened. I realise it's not always easy for guys to get to be able to dress this way, but at least you have recognised your interest, and are able to have done this for some of the time. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    6 answers · Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, and Transgendered · 6 years ago
  • Do grass seeds become sterile and become "less potent" after so long ? (if sitting in shed etc )?

    Best answer: All seeds have increasingly lower germination rates as they get older, and this is magnified if the seeds aren't kept in great conditions. That said, seeds have been germinated from the Egyptian pyramids, where they kept in very dry conditions, which has preserved them for potentially thousands of years. I'd not be bothered... show more
    Best answer: All seeds have increasingly lower germination rates as they get older, and this is magnified if the seeds aren't kept in great conditions. That said, seeds have been germinated from the Egyptian pyramids, where they kept in very dry conditions, which has preserved them for potentially thousands of years. I'd not be bothered if seeds were kept from late one year, into the next, unless they were stored in very damp conditions, which could make the seeds deteriorate, and many of them may not grow next year. Cold conditions are potentially good, such as in your shed, and there are seedbanks now starting around the world, where they're storing rare plant seeds,in case any of these ever near extinction - they're using extreme cold and dry to help preserve them for many years. I'd encourage you to keep your seeds dry, cool and dark, as these conditions will inhibit the seeds from wanting to grow, and also slow down any decomposition of the seeds. If possible, try to keep your seeds in an airtight container, which should also keep them dark. Animals like mice may also eat them in the shed, so beware of these too. Seed producers will ship small packets of seed in airtight containers, but don't normally do this for bulky grass seed, but you can mimic their idea, by using your own airtight container. Growth in a few months time should then get almost the same results as if the seeds were planted in the right conditions today. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    5 answers · Garden & Landscape · 6 years ago
  • What is the best type of plant soil to get for a indoor plant that help prevent bugs from geetim in the soil?

    It's important to use the right potting mix for each type of plant, so that it will grow as well as possible. The fungicide will only kill fungal growths and not insects. Whilst all sold potting soil should be sterilised, before sale, it's possible that contaminants can get in after that, until possibly several months later when it's... show more
    It's important to use the right potting mix for each type of plant, so that it will grow as well as possible. The fungicide will only kill fungal growths and not insects. Whilst all sold potting soil should be sterilised, before sale, it's possible that contaminants can get in after that, until possibly several months later when it's sold. The insect eggs and pupae could get in at any point, if a bag, or a house plant in a greenhouse, in transit, or on sale in a shop is not protected - the plants for sale are especially vulnerable, as their pots are open to the air etc. One thing that deters most of the tiny flies that get into potting soil is a thin layer of tiny gravel on the surface. Another thing that helps is to ensure that the soil does not stay overly wet for long periods. I'd probably go for a well draining soil mix, subject to the plant that I was growing being fine with this - most are. Free draining will deter water logging - as would not allowing it to sit in water for long periods. The gravel should deter the flies from getting in, but won't deter or kill any that are already in the soil. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    4 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • Question about my garden... Need help?

    Firstly, if it were my lawn, I'd want to know what's caused the problem. If you just treat the symptom, ie lawn looks poor condition, but don't treat any underlying cause, then the problem could just recur, and you've wasted some time and money. I'd take a really close look at the lawn, to within a few inches, and see what... show more
    Firstly, if it were my lawn, I'd want to know what's caused the problem. If you just treat the symptom, ie lawn looks poor condition, but don't treat any underlying cause, then the problem could just recur, and you've wasted some time and money. I'd take a really close look at the lawn, to within a few inches, and see what is growing- you say it doesn't look like grass, but close up you should be able to see what it is. If it's a weed mess, and there's no grass, or if you've got wild grass, rather than a cultivated grass, then the cause may just be lack of care and attention, in which case, clearing it and starting again should suffice. If it's due to poor drainage, shade, poor soil condition etc, it would be helpful if these could be addressed, as well as repairing the problem. The cheapest lawn make-over is seeding, rather than laying sod. With patchy lawns, you can over-seed, into the bare areas. Otherwise, you could rip out what you have, check the soil quality, incorporate some good nutrient rich organic material into the soil, and re-seed or lay sod/turf. Whatever you do, it will need watering afterwards, as summer weather will easily mean that the newly growing plants will easily dry out - add this into your projected required labor too. This could mean daily watering for a couple of weeks, minimum, depending on location/weather. So, don't rush into a quick fix, unless there's nothing causing this problem and it needs fixed first. Feeding a lawn is important too, as it helps grass grow strongly, suppressing unwanted stuff, such as moss etc. You can aerate and aid drainage annually too. When you cut, it's helpful to not cut too low down, as this stresses grass, somewhat weakening it. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    3 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • Paeony not flowering?

    They can sometimes be slow to flower, and would partly depend on each individual plant, how old it was when planted, and its location - the location being the key factor, as well as how it was planted. If it's in a good position, plenty of direct sunlight and isn't faced with lots of competition from other plants, then it should be about... show more
    They can sometimes be slow to flower, and would partly depend on each individual plant, how old it was when planted, and its location - the location being the key factor, as well as how it was planted. If it's in a good position, plenty of direct sunlight and isn't faced with lots of competition from other plants, then it should be about ready to flower - most would have already kicked into flowering by this age. If it was planted in autumn, it allows the plant to send out roots during winter, which ensures better growth the following summer - spring and summer planted plants can suffer stress that first year, due to having less of the finer roots. If it had been planted then, it should only be one year's growth that was less than ideal, so no major problems, and again, it ought to have flowered by now, but I'm guessing that you realise this, hence your question. Overall, I'd ensure that it is getting plenty of light, and it has a good space for its roots to grow, and that you feed it well, if the soil is deficient. Whilst I would have encouraged you to dig plenty of organic material into the planting hole, which would help retain moisture and release nutrients slowly for your plant, it's too late for this, and they hate root disturbance. Ideally, they're not moved, and my grandparents had some that were in the ground for 50 years or so, and were wonderful plants. Does your plant have good drainage? They don't really relish waterlogged positions, so that may be an issue. Too deep planting can also restrict flowering, and if you think it has been planted too deeply, I'd remove some of the upper soil, as a first effort, rather than replanting it, which will stress it. For now, I'd add a mulch of well rotted compost, which will help conserve moisture. Each spring it may also be beneficial to add some slow release fertiliser, especially until it starts to flower, if the soil is really poor - if it's growing healthily, just a mulch would be fine. As Potassium is the nutrient that is needed by plants to form flowers, you could add a Potassium only feed, such as Potassium Sulphate. As plants, just like us humans, are individual, some are more fickle than others. If it's a tree peony - and I think you'd have said if it is, then growing conditions are slightly different, and it pays not to prune them. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    6 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • Can I cut my palm like tree s stem all the leaves fell off stem iys only growing from top ?

    You've mentioned 'palm like' tree - so how you care for it really depends on what specific species of plant it is. Palms generally need somewhat different care to most other plants, and there are many species of palm, all of them needing different care too. Palm like could include a lot of other plants, so if you could identify which... show more
    You've mentioned 'palm like' tree - so how you care for it really depends on what specific species of plant it is. Palms generally need somewhat different care to most other plants, and there are many species of palm, all of them needing different care too. Palm like could include a lot of other plants, so if you could identify which plant it is, it would really help us to answer you more accurately. As another pointed out, palms typically have one growing point, so don't remove that - but your question wasn't clear if you intended to cut off all growing points. Some plants can have cuttings taken, but most palms won't reproduce from stem cuttings, which is something you mentioned too. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    3 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • Young sunflower drooping?

    Best answer: I'd allow your Sunflower plant to grow a full root system, unrestricted by pot boundaries, such as in the open ground, if the weather is suitable in your area. The better the root network that it develops, the easier it is for it transport all the water and nutrients that it needs to grow, even on dry days, when it will lose lots of... show more
    Best answer: I'd allow your Sunflower plant to grow a full root system, unrestricted by pot boundaries, such as in the open ground, if the weather is suitable in your area. The better the root network that it develops, the easier it is for it transport all the water and nutrients that it needs to grow, even on dry days, when it will lose lots of water through its leaves. It's better to have a stake in place around your plant when it's young, as putting in a stake later could result in damage to the roots - adding when young will allow the roots to grow around it, instead. The roots growing through/at the edges of the pot show that it does need transplanting - you could repot into a larger pot, or tub, if you can't do this into the open ground, but a pot grown plant will have a smaller root system, and you're likely to get a larger healthier plant if it's growing in the open ground, where its roots won't be restricted. Overall, if a plant is moved from an indoors location to outside, it's better to transition it gradually, so that it has time to adjust over a period of time - there will be different humidity, light and temperature levels, and it takes a few days to complete this - I usually do it for a couple of hours a day, increasing the time each day, over about 2 weeks, until it can remain in the new place all day. This transitioning may not be needed for your plant, if it's already growing outdoors all day long, but I've added it in case it's of use. Doing this with any plant reduces the stress it gets, when moved around. Add some organic material to the planting hole, if you're able, as this will help retain water and also release nutrients slowly, through the summer. I'd also encourage you to feed your plant regularly through the summer, as this will promote strong growth. With potted plants, I generally water when the pots are dry, or almost dry, though young seedlings are more susceptible to roots drying out, as they don't have a large root netwok, so I probably do it at least twice a week, depending on which type of plant it is. Sunflowers are fairly strong robust plants, though they can still get stressed, infections, and slugs and snails will eat them very readily too, so watch out for these, as well as insects, such as greenfly. It will be a great project for your child, so hope you all get a lot of pleasure from its development and later beauty. Hope this helps. Good luck to you all! Rob
    5 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • Pond Lillies Not Growing?

    Best answer: Unless the lower leaves are decomposing, they don't pose a threat to your water lilies, as they'll be photosynthesising and helping the plants gain energy - they won't be a barrier to other leaves growing up. If you're in the UK, my water lilies have also been slow this spring, and only have 3 or 4 leaves on the surface.... show more
    Best answer: Unless the lower leaves are decomposing, they don't pose a threat to your water lilies, as they'll be photosynthesising and helping the plants gain energy - they won't be a barrier to other leaves growing up. If you're in the UK, my water lilies have also been slow this spring, and only have 3 or 4 leaves on the surface. I think the likely reason, other than a very poor April, when temperatures were lower and there wasn't much visible sun in the UK, is that they could easily be in need of division, if their roots have completely filled the baskets that they're planted in. I'd normally divide them when they're dormant, but this could still be done now, if they're bursting at the seems with roots, as they're growing minimally. As others point out, feeding them will also spur strong growth, as there is minimal fertiliser left in the soil, after several season's growth. Use specialist aquatic feed, which you'd insert into the baskets, and will dissolve less in the water, to feed algae, which would give green water conditions. If you do re-pot, then the new soil should contain fresh nutrients for growth, so this won't be so much of an issue, but will still promote stronger growth. The water depth can be a problem, but if they've grown very well in the previous 2 years, then I'd be less concerned. The pygmy water lilies don't need such great depth as the standard type does - one of the issues with shallow planting is that it can force leaves to rise above the water surface, where they will get dried out. Watch out for shade on your pond, as this will reduce the light intensity for the plants too - where possible, give them maximum light intensity for as great a part of the day as possible. If you do divide them, it can be a major job, as roots often burst out of the nets, and they could be pretty hefty. Have a large container with water in it, ready for this, as you won't want any plantlets to dry out, whilst you're finishing the job. One option would be to do one of them, and move the other one to a deeper level, if this is possible, so that you've got both options covered. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    2 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • What does "fertilizer for acid loving plants/shrubs" have inside it that is special for acid loving plants?

    Best answer: Fertilizers don't just contain pure elements, such as Nitrogen N, Phosphourous P and Potassium K, the NPK ratio you'll see listed on each feed's packaging, but they will be chemical compounds of these with other elements. Ericaceous plants are only able to access/use these major elements in certain chemical compounds, ... show more
    Best answer: Fertilizers don't just contain pure elements, such as Nitrogen N, Phosphourous P and Potassium K, the NPK ratio you'll see listed on each feed's packaging, but they will be chemical compounds of these with other elements. Ericaceous plants are only able to access/use these major elements in certain chemical compounds, which are not the standard compounds in the more usually sold feeds, and thus it's almost as if they have none of these essential elements, needed for their growth. For this reason, ericaceous blend feeds have alternative chemical compounds, still with N, P and K, in them, but they will be different compounds that are accessible for this type of plant. A sulfate will lower the ph of the soil - the ph is the scale of acidity/alkalinity, the lower values being more acidic. Nitrogen sulfate would also be a source of available Nitrogen for plants, which promotes green growth. Lastly, a fertilizer will have more than these 3 main nutrients within it, as there are other micronutrients that plants need - the ericaceous feeds will again have these in forms that ericaceous plants can uptake and utilise for healthy growth. Overall, if your soil is acidic, this is the best start; if it's not acidic then you'll need to constantly add appropriate feeds to plants. Even with an acidic soil, feeds will stimulate enhanced growth rates and health. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    6 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • Need To Grow A High Hedge?

    Best answer: A great dense hedge that will grow to 11' and beyond is the Cherry or English Laurel, which is a broad leaved plant that also has white flowers in late spring. Its botanical name is Prunus laurocerasus Rotundifolia, with shiny deep green large leaves, and it can be pruned annually to contain its growth and keep the shape that you... show more
    Best answer: A great dense hedge that will grow to 11' and beyond is the Cherry or English Laurel, which is a broad leaved plant that also has white flowers in late spring. Its botanical name is Prunus laurocerasus Rotundifolia, with shiny deep green large leaves, and it can be pruned annually to contain its growth and keep the shape that you want. There are some photos here that show how it can be used and form - http://www.planfor.fr/Donnees_Site/Produ... http://www.pracbrown.co.uk/media/1037649... http://hedgestrimming.com/cherry-laurel-... It's very fast growing, and adaptable to most garden conditions, whether full sun or shade as well as pretty much any soil type. It doesn't suffer the brown die back that many conifer hedges do, particularly when they get drought or other problems. My ideal hedge is one with mixed plant species, as these can seem more interesting, but a Laurel hedge is hard to beat, due to its quick growth, dense foliage and attractiveness. It's available from most nurseries, and is an inexpensive plant. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    4 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • Why, how does it damage grass to cut it at normal height when it has grown very long?

    Best answer: Grass that has grown very long will have weaker leaf stems in the lower, shadier areas. Cutting grass always adds some stress to grass, and reducing its height significantly will load enormous stress loads to it, that will shock it, significantly more than a light cut will. The immediate impact, other than stress, is that the... show more
    Best answer: Grass that has grown very long will have weaker leaf stems in the lower, shadier areas. Cutting grass always adds some stress to grass, and reducing its height significantly will load enormous stress loads to it, that will shock it, significantly more than a light cut will. The immediate impact, other than stress, is that the overall leaf surface that is available for photosynthesis is drastically reduced. This means that it will reduce the rate at which it is able to produce energy, in the form of sugars, and thus the plants acceleration of development is stunted. At this point, its root development is also going to be minimised, as it has reduced need to support an extensive above ground leaf network. At a superficial level, the point at which the cuts are made will be exposed to the environment, a potential source of infectious agents. The grass will seal this cut area, to lessen the potential for attack, and some die back may occur at these points, and some browning may be visible. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    3 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • How do i prune back my corderline?

    Best answer: Largely Cordylines don't need pruning, unless they've outgrown your space, or are damaged. Damaged leaves can be removed at any time. If it got damaged, such as overwinter where frosts have killed some, and knocked others back, then prune to below the damaged area, into healthy tissue. This prevents disease from spreading... show more
    Best answer: Largely Cordylines don't need pruning, unless they've outgrown your space, or are damaged. Damaged leaves can be removed at any time. If it got damaged, such as overwinter where frosts have killed some, and knocked others back, then prune to below the damaged area, into healthy tissue. This prevents disease from spreading from damaged plant tissue, into the healthy area. They can also grow back from below ground level, when severely damaged or pruned - depending on age - the older the plant, the more easily it will grow back this way. Cordylines are generally single trunked plants, until they reach several years old, when they'll start branching. If yours is single trunked still, then it can be pruned to the height that you want, but it will still typically re-sprout, though with several growing tips, rather than one. Overall, I'd prune in spring time, so that new growth can be made, and it will mature before winter time - the hardier that season's growth, the easier it is for it to withstand winter freezes. Cut diagonally across the stems, if possible, as this will allow water to drain off, and not remain on a flat cut. You can protect plants in severe weather, even if just placing some horticultural fleece over them - it still lets light, water and air through, but keeps temperature below a few degrees warmer. It's fairly cheap stuff, available from B&Q, garden nurseries etc. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    2 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • White grubs eating my garden?

    These sound like Cabbage root fly grubs - they are small white grubs that eat away at the roots of cabbages and other plants in this plant family. Farmers typically dip the small plants into a treatment, when planting them out, though I don't know whether you'd have access to any that would help - a systemic general insecticide - safe for... show more
    These sound like Cabbage root fly grubs - they are small white grubs that eat away at the roots of cabbages and other plants in this plant family. Farmers typically dip the small plants into a treatment, when planting them out, though I don't know whether you'd have access to any that would help - a systemic general insecticide - safe for edible food use - may help. Rotate your crops, and don't grow Brassica family crops there for the next couple of seasons. There's a photo, and a little information, about them here - http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/Prof... As the adult flies have probably laid eggs at the base of the stems of each of your plants, it's likely that they could all be infected with these pests - it's disheartening, to say the least, after all your efforts. We grew tons of cabbages etc on our farm in the past, and we had major problems, but did have treatments available to us, that consumer growers don't have - largely treatments have been restricted over recent years, and insects also develop resistance to them. I hate to say this, but your only option may be to lose all your crop this year, and then follow careful management techniques, in future seasons. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    2 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • What are the best native English or European flowers that best attract butterflies and bumblebees?

    Best answer: In addition to what you have, I'd go for some plants that may help one or both of the bumblebees and butterflies. Butterflies are very varied, and ideally need plants for juveniles, as well as adult feeding, which may be different. If you've got some specific butterflies in mind, I'd recommend looking at their needs, and... show more
    Best answer: In addition to what you have, I'd go for some plants that may help one or both of the bumblebees and butterflies. Butterflies are very varied, and ideally need plants for juveniles, as well as adult feeding, which may be different. If you've got some specific butterflies in mind, I'd recommend looking at their needs, and getting plants that are uniquely focused on these, in order to attract them. For bumblebees, you'll ideally have plants that will feed them throughout the whole period that they're active, from early spring, through to winter. Harebells are a lovely blue flowering plant, that are in the Campanula group of species - you could widen this, to have other Campanulas, which they love too. These range in height from just a few inches, to around 3'. These should be loved by both the bees and butterflies. There's a photo of a gorgeous Harebell here - http://www.wildaboutbritain.co.uk/pictur... This will flower June/July to September. Betony is a lovely wild pink flower, flowering from around June to September, and will be loved by both the bees and butterflies. Its botanical name is Stachys officinalis. Definitely have some Foxgloves - Digitalis purpurea. These are biennials, which you can sow now to flower next year. There are mixed colour versions, that are more interesting to see, and still loved by bees, or just go for the fully wild pink/purple, that occasionally has a white. Very easy from seed, and will re-seed itself for years to come. They're flowering now in my garden, and will have some flowers for a month or two. Bluebells are also great, as an early flowering bulb - aim to get the native UK species, as there are more invasive Spanish plants that are interbreeding with the wild plants in the UK, after spreading from gardens, and threaten our own native plant. Blackberries are also a great source of pollen for both bees and butterflies - and the birds or yourself, could enjoy their fruit, later in the year. Bugle, Ajuga reptans, is a blue flowered wild plant, that forms a lovely low carpet, that can grow in sun or semi-shade - it will flower early in the summer, April to around now, in June. Wild daffodils, or even some of the bred varieties, are a good early source of pollen for bees too. Dead Nettles, or Lamiums, are another easy to grow plant - they won't sting like their scary cousins would. Lamium maculatum is a good pink flowering plant, that will spread, and is a fairly low plant, to around 18'', flowering now, May to June. Wild marjorum is a great plant that both will love, and you could even use some of its leaves in cooking. Origanum vulgare is the botanical name. Flowers from July to September, purple flowers. See it here - http://wildseed.co.uk/species/view/98 There are wild hardy geraniums, or Cranesbills, that flower through the summer, in pinks mainly, and these are easy to grow, and loved by both bees and butterflies. Look for plants such as Geranium pratense. Knapweed is a good robust plant for both types too, with purple flowers in summer. Wild honesuckles grow in hedgerows, and whilst there are bred versions of this plant, you could have either, and these will be loved, flowering all summer. I've focused on plants growing in the UK, though there are more plants that could be introduced to add variety. Hope these ideas inspire and help. Good luck! Rob
    5 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • Tips on starting a garden from scratch on a budget!?

    Best answer: I'd see if friends could help you get the most important areas cleared, maybe a party, and everyone does a little bit - this would allow you to get what would have taken 1 person weeks, based on a couple of hours at a time, and will be a fun thing to be amongst. You can always have an indoors party afterwards. The cheapest plants... show more
    Best answer: I'd see if friends could help you get the most important areas cleared, maybe a party, and everyone does a little bit - this would allow you to get what would have taken 1 person weeks, based on a couple of hours at a time, and will be a fun thing to be amongst. You can always have an indoors party afterwards. The cheapest plants would be some divisions or cuttings from friends. Whilst any plant would fill a space,it's ideal if you have some plan ahead of getting everything together. Next cheapest is seed raised, and there are some near-instant colour, from hardy annuals. These are sown now,and grow flower and die this year, but would give you lots of summer colour. Great and easy annuals for lots of colour are Nasturtiums, which come in mixed or separate colours, and are either trailers/climbers, growing 5' or so, or smaller bushes, to 12-18'', and Californian Poppies, 18'', both of which prefer poor soil, which yours may well be, as it's been neglected. Also easy and colourful are Calendulas, 18''-2'. These can all be sown where you want them to flower, and the Calendulas could be spaced out, after germinating, or sown in pots, as the Nasurtiums could too - but not the Californian Poppies. Some plants to sow for colour next year are the hybrid Foxgloves - Digitalis. These are in mixed colours, and grow 4-5', so are good for backs of borders. These could be pot sown, or sown in the ground, and moved to final positions later in the year - they'll flower early next summer. These seeds can be bought for less than £1 a packet, often less, such as at Morrisons, or Wilkinsons. They will all re-seed themselves, so you can have lots of flowers for years to come. Just remember not to feed the Nasturtiums or Californian Poppies, as they prefer poor soils. The main thing with young seedlings is to ensure that they don't dry out, as they won't have root networks, to provide enough water, if it's dry for long periods. Once they've grown a bit, less frequent deeper waterings are better, and many of them will be fine without much attention. One of the problems I would expect is that there will be lots of weed seeds around, and these are likely to germinate and be a problem for some time, so repeated weeding will likely be needed. As a way to focus attention, away from a larger cultivated area, you could use some cheap tubs, and cram some plants in. They'll need watering and feeding through the summer, as their roots will fill up the soil, very easily. You could use some different plants for these, either annuals, which could be bought as plants, or some that you could raise from seed - the cheapest option. I'd decide on how much lawn you want to keep, and the cheapest method of improving it, is to over-seed it, with new grass seed - much cheaper than turfing. It'll need watering regularly, to stop it drying out as grows, and then regular deeper waterings that are less frequent, if we get long periods of drought this summer. If you expect your lawn to get a lot of wear and tear, use a blend of grass seed with Rye grass in it - this is tougher, and all seed mixes are blends anyway, but some are more aimed at luxury fine grasses, that can't take as much foot traffic etc. You could over-seed it now, as well as add further lots in the autumn, and next spring. I live next to Derbyshire, and if I can think of any good suppliers, I'll let you know, but not really any spring to mind atm. Obviously the county's quite large, from Swadlincote, to north of Chesterfield, south to north, as well as into the Peak District etc, and ideally you won't want to travel too far. My overall advice, is to keep it simple, and not overburden yourselves with too much work, aiming to get maximum benefits from some easy to achieve goals, and then improving things bit by bit. The seed raised plants will be fairly easy, but clearing the ground will be tougher work, that would need doing first, but just a few areas, as well as some tubs - maybe second hand tubs that some friends don't want, would help focus attention and make things look a lot better, than if it's all bare. As time goes on, you'll likely be able to pick up some cuttings and small plants from friends - go for what's easy, as well as fits in. If you had unlimited time, I'd suggest really starting from scratch, and planning it all, but think that could be too big a job for now, and maybe by next spring, you'll have some great ideas about how it could all look. Here are some photos of the plants I mentioned - Californian Poppies - Escholzia : http://images.marketplaceadvisor.channel... Calendula - http://www.thompson-morgan.com/medias/sy... Nasturtium - http://suttons.s3.amazonaws.com/p/FLSNAS... Foxgloveshttp://www.thegardensuperstore.co.uk/acatalog/Foxglove_Excelsior_Mixed_Large.gif Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    6 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • Does it help fescue & warm season grass to let it grow out a bit more before cutting it in the spring?

    Best answer: You'd generally not let your Fescue or other grass get too high, before cutting it, as you'd likely be removing too much when it's mown. Ideally you'll take offf about a third of its height at each cut, whether it's the first cut of the season, or thereafter. Taking more persistently can weaken your grass plants. ... show more
    Best answer: You'd generally not let your Fescue or other grass get too high, before cutting it, as you'd likely be removing too much when it's mown. Ideally you'll take offf about a third of its height at each cut, whether it's the first cut of the season, or thereafter. Taking more persistently can weaken your grass plants. You're right to think that the first cut shouldn't be too severe though, and generally there are too many people that scalp their lawns, which is often a recipe for disaster. Drastic cutting will weaken the lawn, potentially also opening it up for moss and weed infestation too. Overall, it's better to have regular light mowings, which may be weekly, depending on how quickly it's growing. During very dry weather, especially if you're not watering much, if at all, then I raise the cutting height and reduce the frequency to get the best results. It will be very stressed from the drought conditions anyway, and severe cutting will stress it further, and this can lead to weakness and/or death of some of it. To help recover it now I'd be over-seeding with an appropriate grass seed mix - choose a suitable type, dependent on how heavily it's used - Fescues will form a finer lawn, that's less able to withstand very heavy wear and tear - a small amount of Ryes in it would help counter that. I'd also be feeding it, as this will help sustain good strong growth. Beware of dry fertilisers that can dry it out, scorching leaves, especially during dry weather though, so I prefer a liquid feed. I don't like the weed, feed and mosskiller all-in-ones though, preferring to attack any problem individually, if they ever occur. A slow release feed is ideal, as it will sustain growth over a longer period, but the balance here is about using a liquid feed, which are typically instant feeds, versus a dry feed that's slow release. As it's already dry and hot, the liquid feed could help it regain some vigoour. The precautions to watch for are feeding young seedlings too early, if you're over-seeding it. Check manufacturer's recommendations on your feeds for the timescales. So, overall, yes it's ideal to do a light cut, but don't let growth get too high, as it will form weaker lower growth that you'll be cutting in to, eventually having to take off too much growth height. It's ideal to light cuts, and reduce the frequency during hot dry weather, as well as ensuring that these are also very light trims. Deep less frequent waterings are better than light waterings - deep watering will encourage roots to develop to a deeper level, helping withstand drought better. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    3 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • How can I fix my lawn?

    Best answer: The hardiest lawn types are Rye grass, which take much more wear and tear than the other types, in places such as the UK. Whilst you'll likely get grass species mixed, I'd go for something like 80% Rye, 20% Fescue, which is finer, and will help knit it together, as it's more of a creeping fine grass. Your approach partly... show more
    Best answer: The hardiest lawn types are Rye grass, which take much more wear and tear than the other types, in places such as the UK. Whilst you'll likely get grass species mixed, I'd go for something like 80% Rye, 20% Fescue, which is finer, and will help knit it together, as it's more of a creeping fine grass. Your approach partly depends on your budget, as well as available time and size of the lawn. One option is to in-fill any bare patches, after preparing the soil below it, to improve future growth, or just to add seeds to the bare parts. If I was laying a new lawn, I'd not want such a large amount of stones there, and what may also be builder's rubble, below the surface, and I'd also incorporate good organic material, which will both help retain moisture, as well as nutrients over a long period. As it's already almost June, laying a new lawn will mean that you'll be watering for several weeks, potentially during a hose-pipe ban, depending on where you live. If it had been earlier in the year, then new grass would have had longer to establish itself, before potential drought - this spurs me to think of lighter repair now, to allow it to regain some vigour, and possible fuller repair/replacement at a later date, if it's needed. Seeding a lawn, versus turfing, is the cheaper option, and allows you to have fuller control over which type of grass species is planted. Turfing provides a more instant lawn, but again still needs watering frequently. It's hard for me to say what I'd do, without seeing it, and knowing your budget and available time, but as it's almost June, I'd try the lighter repair and see how well it works. Once growth is underway, I'd also be feeding and watering through the growing season. Deeper less frequent watering is ideal to spur good root development, which is better for the grass resilience to drought in the longer term. You could of course get local professionals in, who will give advice on what they'd do - but they may plump for the most labour intensive option, to increase their quote values. They'd likely have it all removed, rotovated and stones/debris being removed, before it being relaid as turf. I do all of my own work though, and think in terms both of the short and longer term timescales. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    4 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago
  • How do I get my grass back?

    Whilst the current UK rains are likely to die back, so that we can continue with drought, heavy rains in future etc. could affect this or any replanted lawn. As such, I'd recommend improving the drainage, for long term reduction/management of it. This is a lot more work than just improving the lawn that you have, so what you do partly depends... show more
    Whilst the current UK rains are likely to die back, so that we can continue with drought, heavy rains in future etc. could affect this or any replanted lawn. As such, I'd recommend improving the drainage, for long term reduction/management of it. This is a lot more work than just improving the lawn that you have, so what you do partly depends on whether you have a larger budget and time allowance. The lowest cost option is to improve the surface soil somewhat, whilst re-seeding the bare areas. A lawn from seed is significantly cheaper than a turfed lawn, and gives you control over the type of grass species that you're planting. Whilst it's boggy, there's a limit to what you can do, so I'd wait for it to dry out somewhat. I'd aerate the soil, and add some fine gritty sand into the holes, which will improve drainage a little, as well as keep the soil aerated. You can then lightly prepare the soil of the bare patches and sow the seed of your choice - very large areas could be turfed too/instead of seeding. As you have dogs, I'd recommend a Rye grass mix, as this is harder wearing, but will also contain some finer grass species too, though it sounds like your dog will not go on the lawn, due to your fences, so less of an issue, unless things change. In any event, Rye grass mixes are the toughest lawns for the UK. Newly sown/laid lawns will need frequent watering, until established - we don't know how our summer's going to be, so nature may help you out too - let's hope it doesn't continue so wet! To keep your lawn growing strongly, then regular feeding will help. I prefer either slow release feeds, or liquid feeds, as some of the dry feeds can burn grass, sometimes killing it. How you mow it is important, and many people mow too harshly, taking too much height away on each cut. This weakens/stresses a lawn, and impacts growth. Ideally take off only a 1/3 of the height at each cut, as more frequent lighter cuts will keep the plants strong, and will encourage it to thicken and spread. Heavy wear and tear will also cause patchiness, so possibly rotate which areas are used, to keep wear spread more evenly. Shops such as Wikinsons sell lawn mixes, otherwise nurseries would provide turf. As said, there are a couple of option, either major renovation and improve drainage, or just seed/turn the bare patches, after aeration, will improve drainage to cope with most normal weather patterns: it has been the wettest April for over a 100 years, so was unusual. It will help to do the aeration each year, as well as continue to feed the grass every year too. Not knowing how bad it is, I'd probably plump for the seeding option, continuing to water when it's dry, until it's established, unless I had the money and time to do the longer term major drainage laying and soil improvement. Hope this helps. Good luck! Rob
    5 answers · Garden & Landscape · 7 years ago